Gwaii Haanas and Skedans

Bears! Eagles! And Setting Out For Gwaii Haanas.

It wasn't long after I got settled in when I got a phone call from the Moresby Island Explorers. Even though my four day tour was cancelled, there was enough people for a 2 day tour. I indicated that I was very interested in the tour and after chatting about a few technicalities I found myself in a much different state of mind than earlier that day. What a whirlwind of a day, from disgruntled and dejected, to excited and enthusiastic. I'm glad I didn't take that ferry back over to Graham Island.

The day of the tour with the Moresby Island Explorers had arrived. 7:30 am sharp I was picked up by a white van. Laura, our guide for our trip as well as the owner, came and knocked on the door of the Bay View Garden bed and breakfast. I and my little bit of luggage (that I did not need) got put into the van and off we went. In the van was a lovely Australian lady named Diane we then had to drive to the Alliford Bay ferry terminal to pick up two more people who wanted to go on the tour. When we got to the ferry terminal the two people we were supposed to pick up ended up being only one. Elrich from the Netherlands was our only other companion for our expedition.

As we made our way down the logging roads to Moresby Camp, where Moresby Island Explorers kept there Zodiacs, Laura regaled us with the history of the local points of interest along the way. Elrich really wanted to see bears when he was in Canada, he thought that bears would make his Canada trip complete. Diane was on a bit of a bear themed trip, she was already on Kodiak Island in Alaska and after this trip she was off to Churchill Manitoba to see some polar bears.

Bears!

Well it seemed bears were the first order of business on our trip. Just before we got to Moresby Camp we turned off into a fish hatchery where the salmon were blocked from going up stream to spawn by a large metal gate spanning the river that had a little bridge over it. This spot was popular for fisherman and bears, lots of bears! There was mothers with cubs and solo male bears as well, and as far as we could tell they were all getting along.

Spawning slamon

black bear with salmon

Black bear with cub and fish

Bear on log

We stayed here for about a half an hour or so until a larger male decided he wanted to fish in the spot we were in, well we kind of scared him off first when we arrived. Retreating to the van we decided to leave the bears alone and continue on our adventure. What a start to our trip, we had not even got on our boat yet and we were already seeing wildlife. Elrich, now had his bear sighting under his belt with a few pictures to boot had now met his criteria for what a tourist should see when visiting Canada, that is until he heard there might be a whale sighting. Well that was just to much for him, a bear sighting and then a possibility of a whale sighting, well as far a Elrich was concerned that would be the cherry on top for his trip to Canada.

Male black bear close up

We reached the boat launch, we dawned our outfits and Laura tended to the Zodiac. The boat was a fine vessel indeed, it had a rigid hull with inflatable pontoons affixed to it, there was two rows of saddle like seating that popped up and revealed an area for dry storage. If the boat was full of people there really would not be much room for storage, but since it was just the four of us there was plenty of room, and like I said before, we did not even really need all that space anyways. We ended up wearing just about all of our clothes and we had our cameras and water bottles out with us. The only reason we used the dry storage is if we were too hot we might have thrown a sweater we were wearing down there.

While the other guests choose their spot on the saddle seating I opted to be facing backward on the bow. Being that I have rode in Zodiacs before I knew the bow was a comfortable place to be, with a cushion of course, and that I would not be facing the inevitable wind that blows like crazy in your face. The only slight downfall to be facing backwards is that you do not get to see the beautiful scenery coming before you, but the the scenery out the back of the boat is in actuality just as breathtaking.

Even on the hottest days in summer is a good idea to be properly dressed for the boat tour. Out on the water the breeze can be very cold and in your eyes. You should always have layered polyester clothing, NO COTTON, a hat like a beanie, hunters cap or toque that can come down over your ears, gloves, thick wool or polyester socks, sunscreen and sunglasses to block the wind and sun from getting into your eyes. Taking the time to bring these items can save you from a great amount of discomfort and thus make your expedition more enjoyable.

Eagles!

Once we were out in the Zodiac it wasn't long before “hawk eye” Laura spotted some eagles perched on some poles sticking out of the water from an abandoned logging camp. She slowed down the boat and ever so slowly and quietly approached the pole the eagles were perched on. She had obviously done this many times before as we were able to get very close to the eagles and get a good look and pictures as well. Eventually we got a little too close for comfort as far as the eagles were concerned and they flew off up into a tree where there was another adult eagle and a juvenile one too. It was only after we had our fill of eagle watching that Laura fired up the motor and we headed toward our first landing at Mathers Creek.

Shrieking eagle

Four eagles in a tree

Ghosts of Mathers Creek

Mathers Creek had a couple of uses over its common history. It first was a site for a mission where the Haida came to get “saved” and maybe saved from the smallpox epidemic as well. This mission only lasted a few years but the remaining grave stones are still visible today. During World War 2 Mathers Creek became a logging camp to produce lumber for the war effort. Though there were many of these camps all over Canada this one is particularly unique because when the logging camp was closed all the equipment was abandoned, even their boots.

Old steam donkey

Broken old wheel

old boot

caved in grave

After a little hike through the abandoned logging camp and what was left of the mission we made our way back to the boat. Our next stop was going to be the old Haida village of Skedans where we would stay for a little longer and have our lunch too.

So back in the boat again, I was surprised at how quickly we went from location to location in the boat. I think the longest stretch of time we spent in the boat might have been a little over an hour, just long enough so that you don't get too antsy. The 4 day trip to Rose Harbour and Ninstints I would imagine the boat ride would be longer between segments.

Skedans Revealed.

The remnants of Skedans are still visible today, though there are not any standing structures, you can see the fallen logs and the remnants of where their homes used to be. There are some good examples of some free (and assisted) standing totem poles in the village as well. To protect the remains of the village from any accelerated damage or erosion all the house sites and totem poles are surrounded with carefully placed clam shells that represent the boundary not to cross.

Eagle carving skedans

Though it is Haida tradition for the houses and Haida totem poles to naturally disintegrate into the ground, some areas have been given a little assistance by unknown persons. There seems to be a bit of a conflict and controversy over preserving the remains of the villages. Some people want to preserve what is left so future generations can appreciate a physical manifestation of their ancestors community a link to the past. Others want to respect the old ways and have all that remains disintegrate back into the earth, especially with the mortuary poles.

Famous Skedans totem

The Haida custom was not to bury their dead in the ground but to put their remains in the top of a kind of totem pole called a mortuary pole. They would carve a large notch out of what would be the top part of the pole and insert the remains inside, cover it up with a flat and long piece of wood. The pole would be adorned cultural symbols, the family crest and if the were especially prominent would display a copper shield. Copper to them is what we consider gold now. It was only the chiefs or prominent people of the village that had their final resting place in a mortuary pole, everyone else was put into a special burial house offset from the village. Part of the philosophy of letting the village ruins return to the earth was the persons soul was locked up in the mortuary pole, and eventually as the pole slowly disintegrated their spirit would be slowly released from the pole.

Mortuary totem pole

fallen totem pole

Mortuary pole Haida

There is also a memorial pole dedicated to someone who has died but the remains were not available for burial. The memorial pole could be also interpreted as a tribute to the family, the rings carved in to the pole is supposed to represent each time that person or family has hosted a potlatch.

Haida memorial totem pole

Skedans totem poles

The potlatch was the centre of the native Haida (and other first nation groups) social activities. Friends and enemies would come from far and wide. The potlatch was used to celebrate just about anything, but the underlying reason for the potlatch was for a display of wealth, influence, prominence and status. The true measuring stick of a high ranking chief or citizen was determined not by how much wealth they could accumulate, but by how much wealth and resources you could distribute. Another way to look at it is the ability to direct or channel resources to as many other people as you could, the goal was not to acquire wealth, but to disperse it greater amounts. And, of course, the best gifts were saved for their enemies, there was nothing more embarrassing than being given a gift by your enemy that you yourself could not reciprocate or improve upon in return. It was kind of a first nations cold war and a bit of one-up-man-ship as well.

The potlatch was so important to the native communities that often important business was discussed, agreements made and alliances formed or dissolved. It was how their form of government got things done. When the white man started to establish its own brand of justice and power in the region they outlawed the potlatch. Europeans were scared that an organized first nations society could be a force to be reckoned with and thus a threat to their plans of conquering this new found land and claiming territory and resources under their country's flag. In reality the white man could not stop the potlatch and eventually the law was repealed.

After we ate the lunch Laura had provided for us she gave us a guided tour of Skedans. In fact Laura seems to be a resident expert in the areas natural and human history, she provided rich and detailed commentary just about every where we went and happily answered all of our questions. After spending a few hours in Skedans it was time once again to get back into the Zodiac and head toward the Moresby Island Explorer's floating cabin, but not without visiting one more point of interest.

Stellar Sea Lions!

Reef Island, often home to colonies of stellar sea lions and today was one of those days. The stellar sea lions have a brown colour to their dry coat and are much bigger than the odd harbour seal I see swimming around from time to time. And the noise they make is so hauntingly unreal, its hard to describe, but it would make some great sound effects for a horror movie.

Stellar sea lions

Stellar Sea Lions Reef Island

We made our way slowly and silently toward the stellar sea lions and the closer we got the more noise they started to make, even the big sea lion bulls were awakened from their slumber and bellowing at us. Eventually we got a little to close for their comfort and they started pouring into the water. They would all swim around in a cluster popping their heads above water to take a breath and bellow some more. Though they were in the water and swimming around they would not come close to us, there was only so far they would come toward us and stay there and watch us and go swim around some more. Once we got down wind of them Laura started up the engines and we continued the journey to the floating cabin.

Stellar sea lions jumping into the water

Stellar sea lions swimming in the water

The Floating Cabin

I and my travelling companions agreed that our expectations of the floating cabin were quite a bit lower and were pleasantly surprised. This was a great cabin in a sheltered inlet just outside the Gwaii Hanaas Park Reserve. It had all the comforts of home with plenty of space, private and semi private bedrooms, a bathroom with a flush toilet, electricity and a full kitchen. During the peak of the season the Moresby Islands Explorers usually have a cook stationed there, but since it was the end of the season, it was up to Laura not only to be guide, but cook as well.

And what a meal it was, baked salmon with salmon, vegetables and rice. If we wanted wine we would have to bring that ourselves, but none of us did so it was a dry evening for all of us. We were all pretty tired by the end of the day and it wasn't long before we all slithered into bed and let the gentle rocking of the floating cabin swept us off to sleep land.

Construction of floating cabin

Moresby Explorers floating cabin

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